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you & your car

In order to extend the life of my new car, I wish to add rustproofing, but am confused about the options. Do the technologies work that pass a small current through the body of the car? Are sprays better than electronic alternatives? Are there any neutral sources of advice to which I can turn? – Alan

I'm not a big fan of rustproofing of any type.

I have has some personal and positive experience with Rust Check but often suspected the reason it worked was because it was applied every year. Having said that, annual applications also involve applying a product on top of the dirt, dust and other stuff that has accumulated in all those nooks and crannies over the past year.

My experience was with an extremely low-mileage "toy" that was driven less than 1,000 kilometres a year and never in the rain or on dirty roads. I don't think any one-time application can provide lasting protection and have heard first-hand many stories of folks with poor experience with these methods.

As for the claims for electric currents I'm not a believer and neither is Consumer Reports, which is the only independent source I can locate. It – and I concur – says today's vehicles are so much better protected from rust than in the past, it makes the after-sales treatment unnecessary. Since manufacturers switched to galvanized steel and were forced to offer rust perforation warranties, you are better off investing in a good wash mitt and high-pressure hose.

Condensation in headlight

I have a 2002 Pontiac Montana and I noticed that one headlight housing had condensation in it. I removed the housing and used a heat gun to dry it out, but the condensation has returned. It's now in both headlights. – Nigel

I once found a tiny little fly inside a "sealed" tail light. That problem is the same as yours – there is a hole somewhere.

In my case, it was big enough for the little devil to get inside; in your case, the hole is likely so tiny you probably can't see it but big enough for some air to get through.

The condensation is caused by a difference in temperature between the outside and inside air. Just like windows in an older house or the inside of the windows of your vehicle, when there is a big difference in surface temperature and moisture in the air it will condense on the warm side.

You will have to not only find the leak, but figure out a way to suck out the air inside the light while sealing it – unlikely.

Perhaps the best bet is a replacement unit. You can price one from a dealer, an aftermarket place such as Canadian Tire or NAPA or call around a few auto recycling yards for a unit. You can quickly determine on sight whether it suffers the same problem.

The first-generation Montana was built in Doraville, Ga., from 1997-2005. It was called a Trans Sport until the 2000 model year in Canada so there should be more than a few around.

Send your automotive maintenance and repair questions to Globe Drive experts at globedrive@globeandmail.com

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