Skip to main content

Watching the tragic events unfold in Mumbai last month, I was saddened by the loss of life and damage to our heritage. I spent part of my youth growing up in Bombay (it will always be Bombay to me, not Mumbai), and not too long ago, I visited the Taj Mahal and Oberoi hotels, both of which were targets of the recent attacks.

I had gone there for enRoute magazine with writer Chris Johns to see how the city's food had changed since I left there to study in Austria. We were wined and dined by the Ministry of Tourism, which was a new way to experience the city for me. In some ways it felt like I'd "arrived," as we stayed in hotels and did things I never could have afforded when I lived there. We ate six meals a day for 10 days, and I was surprised at what a fantastic job the Taj Mahal, Oberoi and InterContinental had done at keeping the flavours of the food so pure. Interestingly, they were all moving away from Punjabi food (which is traditional to Bombay) and focusing more on other regions of India, introducing different kinds of cuisine that may be unfamiliar even to Indians.

One of our best experiences was at Konkan Café in the Taj President hotel. The food was executed in a Western style, but was still focused on the authenticity of the region.

The meals at all the hotels were superb and the service was unparalleled. Both the Taj Mahal and Oberoi have their own schools of hospitality management so that they can groom people within their organizations. To have a successful Japanese restaurant in Bombay (Wasabi in the Taj Mahal) is an amazing feat; Indians usually cook the hell out of fish - and eating raw fish is definitely a challenge for the local palate.

While we ate at fancy restaurants at night, during the day we would eat from the street stands. Seeing Chaupati, the open-air street-food mall on the beach, brought back memories and tears of nostalgia to my eyes, even though when I was growing up I rarely went to Chaupati - it was for people who weren't so well off. But 10 years later, there I was eating at and writing about the place. Lovers and families strolled the beach sampling an eclectic mix of food, from fresh fruit juices, crunchy bhel puri and deep-fried batata vada to peanuts and spun sugar balls.

One restaurant I was curious to visit was Indigo in the Colaba district as a number of people have told me it's similar to Vij's. We ended up having dinner with owner Rahul Akerkar and his wife, Malini, but still I wanted to be critical and observe the kitchen. I went back and watched the line, poked around and decided the restaurant's accolades were well deserved - we had a great meal that was cooked and executed perfectly.

It is very difficult to describe Bombay cuisine. I think of it as a perfect combination of regional and diverse, a perfect dichotomy of food and cultures. I am not enough of a writer to put it into words, but I am human enough to feel it.

Grilling is done all the time on the streets of India.

Yogurt and tamarind- marinated grilled chicken

What you need

¾ cup plain yogurt, stirred

1 tablespoon tamarind paste

3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic

¼ cup canola oil

1½tablespoons salt

1¼ teaspoons ground cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon garam masala

2¼ pounds boneless chicken thighs

1 lemon, in 6 wedgesWhat you do

In a large mixing bowl, combine yogurt, tamarind paste, garlic, oil, salt, cayenne and garam masala. Add chicken thighs and mix well. Make sure chicken is well covered in the marinade.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least four hours and up to eight hours. The longer the chicken marinates, the stronger the flavours will be.

Preheat a grill, barbecue or stovetop cast-iron grill to high heat.

Remember to turn on your exhaust fan when you are grilling on your stovetop, since the cooking process will emit some smoke.

Grill marinated chicken thighs on one side for about two minutes and then turn over. Grill the other side for two minutes and turn over again. Grill each side again for two minutes for a total of four minutes a side. Poke the thighs with a knife to be sure they are cooked through. If the meat is still pink, grill each side for one minute more.

To serve, divide rice, noodles or salad greens among six plates. Top with grilled chicken. While piping hot, squeeze a little fresh lemon on the chicken, according to taste.

Serves 6.

Vikram Vij is owner and chef of Vij's in Vancouver

***

Beppi's wine matches

A crisp white works best here. Sauvignon blanc, pinot gris or even a crisp, unoaked or moderately oaked chardonnay are all good choices. There's always ever-versatile riesling, too. From British Columbia, consider Peller Estates Private Reserve Riesling ($17.99 in B.C.). From New Zealand, there's Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($19.99 in B.C.; $21.81 in N.S.). From Ontario, look for Malivoire Pinot Gris ($19 in Ontario) or Fielding Pinot Gris ($18.20 in Ontario).

Interact with The Globe