We're on the cusp of a new direction for men's wear," says Scott Schuman, the fashion consultant and super blogger better known as The Sartorialist. "We've spent the last 10 years primarily in a shrunken suit, and I think the fashion media, and more importantly the fashion customer, is dying for something new to wear."
Schuman, who has been documenting men's style on his blog for over a decade, says designers are offering more options these days because men are ready to break out of accepted fashion norms. "The men's-wear customer is becoming more willing to play with colour, play with proportion, and play with the traditional concepts of gender," he says. "And instead of buying from one brand, they're now combining the best from tailoring, casual, and basics into one look."
While women's-wear designers have felt the freedom to subvert convention and parade inspired, fanciful looks for years, men's wear, it seemed, has been stuck in a rut since metrosexuality had its moment in the mid-nineties, deeming a shortened hemline or rolled cuff "progress," and reduced to practical codes of dressing, with phrases like "wearable basics" defining a whole generation of men's style. Now, men are taking a decidedly forward-thinking view and designers are unveiling collections that are challenging long held notions of masculinity.
Avant-garde shapes reign this season, but have been significantly brought down to earth in a cool, neutral palette. Ante Meridiem (far left), a Canadian design collective, employs generous proportions to create comfortable separates. Interesting details elevate basic pieces – see Juun.J’s eye-popping pockets that take a conventional white T-shirt into fashion forward territory (left). From left: Ante Meridiem tunic $445, trousers $515 through www.antemeridiemstudio.com. Common Projects shoes, $560, at Gravity Pope (www.gravitypope.com). Juun.J T-shirt, $510 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfew.com). Tank top (layered under T-shirt), $200, trousers, $550 through www.antemeridiemstudio.com. Common Projects shoes, $585, at Gravity Pope.
Those leading the charge include Craig Green, who is known for his proportion play and showed flowing, wide-legged pants and deconstructed jackets for spring. At the J.W. Anderson presentation, a pair of high-waisted indigo trousers was styled with a structured coat, but also paired with a sleeveless T, and later, tucked under a cropped sweater with billowing sleeves. Haider Ackermann, meanwhile, offered variations on pinstripes, showing the blazer and pants worn with a vaguely bohemian aesthetic, rather than as a stuffy banker suit.
Toronto-based designer Andrew Coimbra's spring collection demonstrated the fresh gender flexibility of men's streetwear, juxtaposing hyper-masculine silhouettes with "non-traditional" male colours. Think athletic jerseys and basketball shorts, rendered in pink, lavender and airy blues. "I design for a man who knows when to step out of the box," Coimbra says. "He understands that his style is a vessel for his creativity, respecting the traditional men's-wear aesthetic but challenging it at the same time."
To achieve new impact with familiar silhouettes, Toronto label Andrew Coimbra (right) tweaked traditional pinstriping in its spring collection, exaggerating and repeating painterly lines on key pieces. Sacai, a Japanese brand on many fashion insiders’ wish lists, created a textured motif that looks both luxurious and novel in the moody tones of a black-and-navy topper. From left : Bomber jacket $375, T-shirt, $260, pants $300 through www.andrewcoimbra.com. WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie Sandals, $375 at WANT Apothecary. Sacai jacket, $1,425, top, $395, Miharayasuhiro shorts, $635 through www.ssense.com. WANT Les Essentiels de la Vie shoes, $475 at WANT Apothecary. Bandana (worn on neck), $18 through www.invintagewetrust.com.
That creativity is fed by the rise of Instagram, which has helped men feel more connected to fashion by observing style icons that look like them. No longer limited to taking inspiration from teenaged models in skinny suits, men can now collect sartorial references from musicians, entertainers and even businessmen in Italy and Japan (see Globe Style's lexicon of the names to know below to learn more about the influence of Kanye West, Xavier Dolan and Nick Wooster).
"Men are definitely more mindful about the way they dress," affirms Federico Barassi, men's-wear buying manager for SSENSE. "As they cultivate their personal style, they are also more adventurous in their choices, embracing emerging designers and investing in pieces outside the norm."
As the buzz for new men's wear begins to build, designers both emerging and established will be challenged to innovate without over-reaching. For every Gucci fur loafer that sells out, there's a pair of Google Glass frames that don't. And while more and more men are embracing an elevated and adventurous style of dressing, balance is still important.
"A large part of our business is still formal suiting," says Joe Casely-Hayford, the patriarch of father-son design duo Casely-Hayford. "But the other half consists of men who are interested in what is relevant in the moment and are always looking ahead. Our favourite customers are the ones that operate in both spheres."
THE NEW MEN'S STYLE LEXICON
An updated directory of the brands, designers and influencers to name drop now
AMI Named after designer Alexandre Mattiussi, who spent time at Givenchy and Dior, this French brand is upgrading the modern man's wardrobe, with easy, sporty staples and crisp, Parisian-inspired style.
BWGH Inspired by photography, textiles and youth culture, Brooklyn We Go Hard (a.k.a. BWGH ) has amassed a cult following with their subversive T-shirts, sneakers and accessories. Despite the name, the brand was started by two childhood friends who live and design in Paris.
CRAIG GREEN This Central Saint Martins grad has become the darling of the London men's-wear scene with his draped, wrapped and re-worked garments, all of which reinterpret traditional ideas of uniform and utility.
DRAKE Just call him the people's champion. While other rappers flaunt their Goyard bags and Cartier bracelets, the only bling Drake mentions comes in the form of a song. Don't discount his influence though. The rapper is just as important to the fashion industry as that other rap god (more on him later). Drake's style works because he dresses like ordinary people, so it's not hard for fans to access his look. Case in point: When the rapper was photographed wearing a Stone Island sweater over the summer, it gave the nineties "dad brand" an instant jolt of credibility, while simultaneously upping their cool factor with the under-30 set. More proof of Drake's influence: His OVO brand just opened its second clothing store – in L.A.
EDMUND OOI Born in Malaysia, based in Belgium and showing in New York and Milan, the 28-year-old Ooi is the nomadic fashion wunderkind. Merging elements of sci-fi and modern art with bold colors and proportion play, Ooi is creating men's wear with a sense of humour, a sense of irony, and above all, an original point of view.
FAMILY From the siblings behind accessories brand Giles & Brother to the dapper bros behind New York's Ovadia & Sons, the family that designs together, succeeds together. Casely-Hayford is the latest family-run business to make its mark on the men's-wear scene. Designer Joe Casely-Hayford had been in the business for decades before he brought on son Charlie as stylist and co-designer. Now, the father-son duo is the toast of London, with their inspired takes on fresh and fearless British sportswear.
GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY When Dover Street Market places an order for your collection before it's even hit the runway, you know you've got a hit on your hands. Gosha Rubchinskiy made his debut in Paris during the Spring 2015 shows, and he's been on an upward trajectory ever since. The Muscovite mixes nineties nostalgia and post-Soviet references with a gritty, street punk aesthetic. Is it art? Is it high-fashion? Is it all just an elaborate inside joke? Who cares, when you're selling out the biggest boutiques in the world and being praised by everyone from A$AP Rocky to Vogue.
HYPE BEAST Definition: a person who obsesses over underground brands and limited-edition releases, often braving long lines or camping out to get his hands on new, exclusive product before anyone else. (See: Supreme x Jordan Brand, Adidas Ultra Boost, anything Kanye) See also: RE-SELLE R – a true hype beast's worst enemy.
INFLUENCER Originally used to define founders or leaders of a particular thought community, the word is now – often loosely – applied to people with large social-media followings who leverage their influence to promote products and brands, including men's-wear labels. A recent Women's Wear Daily report found that top influencers now charge up to $25,000 (U.S.) per Instagram post. That's nearly five times the going rate from just 18 months ago.
JUSTIN O'SHEA Can you be rough and ready-to-wear at the same time? The buying director for MyTheresa.com is proof that tough guys can pull off a bespoke suit, too. The tattooed tastemaker has become one of the few reliable street-style stars, with his signature beard and deft mixing of Savile Row staples and sporty separates. Just don't call him a lumbersexual.
KENT AND CURWEN Established in 1926 as a gentlemen's fashion brand, U.K.-based Kent and Curwen is stepping up efforts to appeal to a younger customer. The first step: signing David Beckham as a brand ambassador, with plans to launch a Beckham-designed collection in 2016.
LOU DALTON Trained at the Royal College of Art, Dalton is highly regarded for her quiet, refined approach to men's wear. Intricate yet unfussy, her collections reveal novel approaches to print and texture, all rendered on traditional silhouettes. More than anything, her pieces look comfortable – like clothing you would actually want to put on and wear.
MALE MODELS Forget Karlie and Cara, male models are so taking over the mainstream. Last year, it was Taylor Swift tapping industry vet Sean O'Pry as her "Blank Space" love interest. Now Selena Gomez is taking a cue from her friend's book, casting model Christopher Mason in her latest video, for Hands to Myself. Celeb kids Gabriel Day-Lewis and Dylan Brosnan, meantime, are booking major campaigns, appearing for Calvin Klein and Saint Laurent respectively. And then there's Lucky Blue Smith. Model of the year and runner-up to Kanye in GQ's "Most Stylish" poll, Smith has also single-handedly made platinum hair cool again, sending droves of men to the salon to get the "Lucky Blue 'do." The newly minted Angeleno has fronted campaigns for Tom Ford, Calvin Klein and Philipp Plein. And he's still just 17.
NICK WOOSTER You can't flip through a magazine or Instagram without seeing a photo of Wooster, and for good reason. The former retail consultant-turned-front row staple has more than half a million followers analyzing his every look, from his deconstructed pompadour to the break in his tailored trousers. His ongoing collaborations with sneaker brand Greats and Italian suiting company Lardini, meanwhile, are consistently sold out.
OFFICINE GENERALE Workwear-inspired tailoring that doesn't feel forced. The Parisian label has made its mark with simple silhouettes, noble fabrics, and manufacturing in Portugal that respects the design and production process. The result is a brand that's as wellmade as it is wearable – smart fashion for the forward-thinking man.
PARK & PROVINCE It seems like every guy we know is shopping at this Toronto-based boutique, which also boosts a thriving online business. With its mix of contemporary brands and old-school favourites, the store has positioned itself as the go-to shop for the guy who wants to look good and smell good, while appearing like he's just strolling through the neighbourhood.
QUIRKY Once reserved for nerdy hipsters or big Mad Men-type looks, quirky is making a comeback this season in less obnoxious doses. Maison Kitsune does it with its self-aware slogan Ts, while Opening Ceremony presented an entire collection inspired by Beethoven and Bach. (Trust us, it's not as crazy as it sounds). Hoping to ease into the quirky trend? Start with Pintrill – an online shop where you'll find everything from an emoji pin to a vintage Penny Hardaway pin, perfect for personalizing any outfit.
REIGNING CHAMP Between this popular sportswear brand, Herschel Supply and Viberg boots, it's a great time to be from British Columbia. Reigning Champ continues to lead the way, with its Canadian-made essentials now stocked in more than 20 countries around the world, and collaborations with everyone from Club Monaco to the L.A. Galaxy soccer team. The brand also opened its first flagship store in Vancouver last year, with plans to expand to more locations soon.
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Saks is making a serious play for the men's-wear market, having just acquired Gilt Groupe for an estimated $250-million (U.S.). Expect to see a ton of Saks inventory off-loaded onto the discount site, which means deals on both private-label and brand-name merchandise. Opening in Toronto this spring, the venerable U.S. department store is also working with parent company Hudson's Bay, to expand its breadth of brands and products for the male consumer. Expect to see more denim and casual sportswear alongside the racks of suits and sweaters that will always be a Saks signature.
TECHNICAL FABRICS You can't touch a rack of clothes these days without sliding up against some neoprene, and the technical trend looks to continue in 2016. Vancouver-based Arc'teryx Veilance approaches technical fabrics from a fit and function perspective, offering pieces for the city's rainy climate that can hold their own on the streets of Milan.
UNITED ARROWS The Japanese have always done men's wear better than anyone else, which is why this retail storeturned– concept brand continues to lead the pack with deceptively simple jackets, suiting and separates. You'll want to put these pieces on because they look so cozy and comfortable; you'll never want to take them off because they're just so damn cool.
VIRGIL ABLOH The mastermind behind fashion label Off-White, and creative director for Kanye West, Abloh is one of the most influential stylists and designers today. His background in civil engineering and architecture make him an unlikely arbiter of style, yet it's exactly this openness that has made him a go-to for celebrities and magazines like, not to mention a finalist for the prestigious LVMH prize. Playing with proportion, logos and an often-muted palette, Abloh's pieces defy gender norms and ethnicity, instead focusing on self-expression and individual style. It's no wonder, then, that the most influential retailers and editors in the world are all clamouring for his attention.
WHITE MOUNTAINEERING Designer Yosuke Aizawa started his Tokyo-based label with three principles: design, utility, technology. He's applied that inspiration along with his deft touch for fabrication and wearability to pieces that are inherently urban yet fitted for the outdoors as well. Think padded jackets, pumped up sweats and retro-inspired sneakers – an ongoing collaboration with adidas Originals.
XAVIER DOLAN Hello? The Canadian filmmaker not only directed Adele's big comeback video, but he also fronted Louis Vuitton's latest men's campaign. From fashion weeks to film festivals, the dashing director consistently ranks as one of Young Hollywood's best-dressed.
YEEZY You didn't think we could write a men's-wear wrap without including Kanye did you? The omnipresent rapper is officially a fashion icon, proving his chops with a sold-out (and well-received) collection at New York Fashion Week, and translating that into big sales for his monochromatic, futuristic street-wear line. He's also scoring with his buzzy collaboration with Adidas. Reports say retailers will be receiving four times the amount of Yeezy Boosts in 2016, proof that Kanye is holding true to his promise of making fashion accessible to all.
ZOOLANDER Because Derek is the first male model to land the cover of Vogue and the first man to appear on the cover since, well, Kanye did it with Kim Kardashian in 2014.
Photo shoot credits: Styling by Matthew Chow/P1M.ca. Grooming by Vanessa Jarman/P1M.ca. Manicure by Wendy Rorong for Plutino Group. Models, Chirico and Nathan Roy at Dulcedo Model Management.