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RUNWAY FASHION

With the Spring 2018 round of fashion shows kicking off this week, the industry's familiar faces will clamour to claim a piece of the spotlight. But the real appeal of the seasonal spectacle is discovering under-the-radar brands that up your insider cred. Odessa Paloma Parker names six labels to know in New York, London, Paris and Milan

Phoebe English (London)

Call it conceptual or challenging, but Phoebe English's reimagination of what luxury garments can look like has become increasingly refined, and she's poised to join the ranks of forward-thinking designers like Rei Kawakubo in creating collections with cerebral appeal. With pieces exclusively designed and produced in Britain, English also has her eye on expansion; her men's-wear line debuted last year.


Haizhen Wang (London)

A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Haizhen Wang spent time at Max Mara and All Saints before launching his eponymous brand in 2010. The attention to deft tailoring and channeling a downtown attitude has united seamlessly in Wang's collections, which boast novel fabrications from neoprene to Swarosvki crystal-flecked silk, and enough edge to keep the style set's most savvy engaged.


Laurence & Chico (New York)

After meeting at Parsons School of Design, Canadians Laurence Li and Chico Wang launched their New York-based line in 2015. Wang's design chops were honed while working at brands including Miu Miu and Givenchy, and Li's illustrations give the duo's quirky pieces playful personality. Relying on embellishments from oversized pearls to embroidery, the line has naturally caught the eye of Toronto bloggers and sartorial magpies, The Beckerman Twins.


Annakiki (Milan)

Making her Milan debut last February, Anna Yang has made an impact with her exuberant line, composed of pieces ranging from leather jackets adorned with hand painted motifs to patterned dresses and printed denim. Her fall 2017 show had an otherworldly theme, bolstering her reputation for playing on fashion's fantastical fringe. Yet the show's extraterrestrial theme didn't distract from the very wearable separates that Yang so expertly crafts.


Atlein (Paris)

Antonin Tron founded his Paris-based line in 2016, after studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and working for brands including Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton. Tron's minimal and refined approach is elevated by sophisticated detailing and sumptuous fabrics; think Stella McCartney meets Jil Sander. No wonder he's caught the eye of buyers at the industry's heavyweight retailers, including Net-a-Porter and Nordstrom.


Victoria/Tomas (Paris)

Launched in 2012 by now-married couple Victoria Feldman and Tomas Berzins, this line is informed by the ultra-chic young women of Paris while fusing streetwear, elegant tailoring and off-beat details. Sold at the iconic boutique, Colette, the buzzy brand has been embraced by editors at Madame Figaro and L'Officiel – both essential stamps of approval for a line based in the City of Lights.

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