The question: One of my foodie friends upbraided me the other day for pouring inexpensive extra-virgin olive oil on a plate of heirloom tomatoes. Do I really need a special bottle just for drizzling?
The answer: Great olive oil can taste like almonds and crushed black pepper, bright like citrus zest and even reminiscent of bananas and fresh-cut grass. And though I realize how effete this sounds, I'm going to say it anyway: All those volatile aromas can do fabulous things for a plate of tomatoes. Price isn't always a great indicator of quality, however. If you want to take the plunge and purchase a better bottle (and you should!), go to a specialty store where you can try before you buy. Remember to check the harvest date on the bottle or can – the more recent it is, the better. Once you bring it home, keep it cool, dark and well sealed, and use it up within a year at most. Even the finest olive oil goes rancid over time, and rancid oil tastes a lot more like burning garbage than fresh-cut grass.
Follow food writer and restaurant columnist Chris Nuttall-Smith on Twitter: @cnutsmith . Have an entertaining dilemma? E-mail style@globeandmail.com .