Tom Colicchio's first Manhattan restaurant in six years is housed in the newly opened Beekman hotel downtown, sitting below a jaw-dropping nine-story atrium (search "Beekman" on Instagram for a visual tease of the often-photographed space). The building was one of the city's first high-rises and housed numerous offices, including that of the well-known phrenologist firm Fowler & Wells, which Colicchio adopted as the name of his establishment.
The tables at Fowler & Wells are dressed with proper fine china; diners bask in the soft yellow glow of brass chandeliers and small tabletop lamps. On one wall of the glamorous space is a mosaic of stained glass. It's a room that's inevitably described as "quintessentially New York."
The menu follows this same narrative. There are no micro-greens, foam or trendy tapas here. Instead, classic dishes like oysters Rockefeller, lobster Thermador and baked Alaska dot the menu alongside modern farmhouse fare. The chestnut agnolotti with celery root and black truffle tastes like magic, especially when chased with a James DeVille cocktail fashioned with bourbon, absinthe and orange bitters.
For more information, visit www.thompsonhotels.com.