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Lamb shoulder chops and beef rack ribs with green salsa: Meat on the bone is always tastier. There is a sparkling food chemistry between the bone and the meat that gives it its lip-smacking goodness.

Peter Power/The Globe and Mail

Butchers and supermarkets often sell boneless rib roasts, and the bones they remove make a wonderful rib fest – a superb alternative to spare ribs. I call them dinosaur bones because they are huge and hearty. There are two ways of grilling them: fast and slow.

Servings: 4

Wine pairings:

We’re in the land of Big Meat. Time for a Big Red. Deploy your favourite style and it likely will perform admirably – firm Cabernet Sauvignon, herbal-peppery Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Okanagan Merlot, you name it. My specific instinct for slaying these beef “dinosaur” bones is to reach for Australian Shiraz. The wine’s rounded sweet fruit and rich but cuddly profile will hug the spicy seasonings. Good alternatives: jammy red Zinfandel from California or, at the bargain end, Italian Primitivo. - Beppi Crosariol

Fast grill

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 tbsp soy sauce

1 tbsp sriracha sauce

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary

2 racks of beef ribs, 4 bones each

Slow grill

1 tbsp paprika

1 tbsp chili powder

1 tsp dry mustard

1 tsp dried thyme

1 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp freshly ground pepper

1/2 tsp brown sugar

2 racks of beef ribs, 4 bones each

Method

Fast grill:

Preheat grill to high.

Stir mustard with soy sauce, sriracha, Worcestershire and rosemary in a small bowl. Brush over ribs.

Place ribs on grill and cook covered for 5 minutes. Flip and continue cooking covered for 10 more minutes or until medium rare.

Slow grill:

Preheat grill to 250-275 F. You may need to turn off 1 or 2 burners to achieve this low heat.

Stir spices and sugar together in a small bowl. Rub mixture into ribs.

Place on grill and cook for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, turning every hour or until very tender.

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