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Beauty's Bagel Shop in Oakland, Calif., pays homage to Beauty's in Montreal, where owner Blake Joffe's father grew up. His savvy take on vegetarian deli food includes an unforgettable egg salad on a Montreal-style bagel that is balanced with salt and does not have that underlying sweetness. Everything is lovingly handmade. For this recipe, use horseradish as a great flavour enhancer. Serve it on bagels for a Sunday brunch or spoon over lots of bitter lettuce as a first course.

Servings: 8

Ready time: 35 minutes

Wine pairings:

For egg salad, experience has taught me that you want bold fruitiness to counterbalance the mustard and horseradish here as well as sharp acidity to cut through the mayo. It helps, too, when you’ve got herbaceous notes to resonate with the dill and celery. New Zealand sauvignon blanc meets the criteria, though you can’t go wrong with almost any lean, crisp Mediterranean white. Lightly bitter pilsner is another good option. Beppi Crosariol

Ingredients

10 hard-boiled eggs

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped red onion

2 tablespoons chopped dill

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1 tablespoon whole grain mustard

1/2 cup horseradish, well drained

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Mash eggs with a potato masher or grate with a coarse grater. Combine mayonnaise, celery, red onion, dill, parsley, lemon rind, mustard and horseradish in a medium bowl. Stir in eggs and season with salt and pepper.

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