The sour, that venerable class of concoctions based on any spirit, citrus juice, sweetener and sometimes frothed egg white, is as flexible as Sting after a yoga class. Besides the iconic whisky sour, the family boasts such compelling members as the tequila-based margarita and brandy-spiked sidecar. Josh Pape, who tends bar and is a co-owner at Vancouver's Wildebeest, on the edge of gritty-chic Gastown, puts a lazy-day spin on the formula with invigoratingly herbal gin. Then, in keeping with the restaurant's "unapologetically protein-forward" nose-to-tail menu, he spices things up with creamed horseradish and a dollop of honey for a bracing tonic that pairs beautifully with the signature short ribs. "It's our top-selling drink and probably always will be," Pape says. Bones, red meat, horseradish and a strong kick – hip urban Neanderthals, dinner is served.
Horseradish sour by Josh Pape, Wildebeest, Vancouver
2 ounces London dry gin
1 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce runny honey
Dash of egg white
1 teaspoon creamed horseradish
Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice cubes, cover and shake vigorously. Fine-strain drink from shaker into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.