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Horseradish sour by Josh Pape, Wildebeest, Vancouver. Food styling by Ashley Denton/Judy Inc. (www.judyinc.com). Prop styling by Rodney Smith/Judy Inc. Vintage coupe glass, stylist’s own.

Rob Fiocca/The Globe and Mail

The sour, that venerable class of concoctions based on any spirit, citrus juice, sweetener and sometimes frothed egg white, is as flexible as Sting after a yoga class. Besides the iconic whisky sour, the family boasts such compelling members as the tequila-based margarita and brandy-spiked sidecar. Josh Pape, who tends bar and is a co-owner at Vancouver's Wildebeest, on the edge of gritty-chic Gastown, puts a lazy-day spin on the formula with invigoratingly herbal gin. Then, in keeping with the restaurant's "unapologetically protein-forward" nose-to-tail menu, he spices things up with creamed horseradish and a dollop of honey for a bracing tonic that pairs beautifully with the signature short ribs. "It's our top-selling drink and probably always will be," Pape says. Bones, red meat, horseradish and a strong kick – hip urban Neanderthals, dinner is served.

Horseradish sour by Josh Pape, Wildebeest, Vancouver

Servings: 1

Ingredients

2 ounces London dry gin

1 ounce lemon juice

1/2 ounce runny honey

Dash of egg white

1 teaspoon creamed horseradish

Method

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice cubes, cover and shake vigorously. Fine-strain drink from shaker into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper.

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About the Author
Life columnist

Beppi Crosariol writes about wine and spirits in the Globe Life and Style sections.He has been The Globe's wine and spirits columnist for more than 10 years. In the late 1990s, he also wrote a food trends column called The Biting Edge.Beppi used to cover business law for ROB and previously edited the paper's weekly technology section. More

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