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Winter squash fritters with za’atar and ricotta salata.TARA O’BRADY

After the revelry of holidays and the new year, it is tempting to turn to the muted flavours often found in winter cooking. In an attempt to stave off that seasonal lull, I like to include some uplifting meals in my rotation, which help me feel revived and ready to face these cold days.

The pleasantly assertive bite of citrus and a rejuvenating shock of fresh herbs flecked with chili keep these rustic squash fritters lively, while ricotta salata, that unabashedly saline sheep's milk cheese, punctuates and balances out the inherent sweetness of the squash. (If squash is not to your taste, other hearty winter vegetables such as celeriac or carrots work, too.)

A green-tinted tahini sauce, with an earthy hit of cumin, complement the fritters on the plate. This pairing emphasizes the za'atar in the latter while providing a necessary richness.

For that sauce, a high-powered blender will get it unbelievably smooth and voluptuous, but a food processor will also make quick work of the mixture. If employing the processor, pulse the cumin, herbs and garlic until minced, then add the remaining ingredients. This recipe makes more sauce than needed for the one batch of fritters; leftovers can be kept covered in the fridge for up to three days. It pairs well with falafel or grilled meats, and can be thinned with yogurt for a dip. The squash can be grated with the attachment on a food processor, a box grater by hand, or a spiralizer if you have one. And one note on the lemon – you use the juice with the tahini but need the zest in the fritters, so be sure to grate the rind before juicing.

Servings: 18

Tahini sauce

2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds

¹/³ cup cold water, plus more as needed

¾ cup tahini, well-stirred

Juice of 1 lemon

1 cup mixed tender herbs (mint, parsley, cilantro)

2 garlic cloves, chopped

Medium-grain kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Fritters

1 cup chickpea or all-purpose flour

4 teaspoons za’atar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and grated (about 6 cups)

1 cup tender herbs (mint, parsley, cilantro)

1 fresh small red chili, seeded and minced

2 shallots, thinly sliced

½ cup ricotta salata, grated or finely diced

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ cup yogurt

½ cup milk

2 eggs

Zest of 1 lemon, finely grated

Olive oil, for frying

Flaky sea salt, lemon wedges for serving (optional)

Method

Make the sauce first. In a medium skillet over low heat, dry roast the cumin seeds, shaking the pan often. Once aromatic, 45 seconds or so, tip half the seeds into the carafe of a blender, and reserve the rest in a bowl for garnish later.

Pour the water into the carafe, then scrape in the tahini, squeeze in the lemon juice, then add the herbs, garlic and a good pinch of salt. Pop on the lid and turn the machine up to high. If the sauce is too thick to run easily, pour a thin stream of extra water through the lid until the sauce is smooth, but retains body. It should be the consistency of runny honey. Scrape down the sides of the carafe and process for 30 seconds more, then taste and season as needed. Decant to a bowl and refrigerate the sauce until the fritters are ready.

Whisk the flour, za’atar, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl. Stir in the squash, herbs, shallot and chili, then fold in the ricotta. In a jug, whisk the yogurt, milk, eggs and lemon zest until smooth. Gently stir the liquids into the dry ingredients in the bowl until it comes together as a batter. Do not over mix.

In the same skillet used for the cumin, warm a thin layer of oil over medium heat. Scoop mounds of batter into the pan, using generous tablespoons for each. Flatten slightly with the back of a spatula, then cook, turning once, until golden and hot all the way through, 5 to 7 minutes. Grab the sauce from the fridge; it may have thickened, so loosen it up with water if needed. Sprinkle the sauce with the reserved roasted cumin seeds.

Drain the fritters briefly on paper towels, then serve hot, sprinkled with flaky salt and, on the side, the tahini sauce and lemon wedges.

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