The winemakers of Burgundy have a keen knack for euphemism. They don't suffer the curse of lousy weather; they cope with "challenging growing conditions." And if it rains all spring and summer, well, they can still pull off a "miracle" harvest if a dry spell settles in come autumn. When your job entails growing fickle, thin-skinned pinot noir in a humid environment and you insist on charging big money for it, you keep your spin skills well-honed.
During the mostly cloudy, wet 2008 season, now widely represented on Canadian shelves, growers had been bracing for the worst. "Challenging" would have been an understatement. Then, in September, the clouds parted. A dry north wind moved in, acting like one of those basement rent-all fans, curbing rot while also concentrating flavour in the berries. Estates that waited patiently to harvest at full ripeness and got down to serious triage in the wineries, chucking out unripe and mouldy bunches, managed to save the day. Many pundits dubbed it - guess what - the miracle vintage.
To Burgundy collectors, the reality may seem slightly less sanguine. The best producers did indeed craft good and occasionally great reds, while others, it must be said, delivered thin wines with more mouth-stinging acidity than usual. It was not the famed 2005 vintage, but it was good in the end and better than 2007.
It's certainly nicer to try the wines now as opposed to back in March of 2009, when I tasted a few in Burgundy that were aging in barrel cellars. That's because a late harvest and cold winter weather delayed another critical development, a beneficial chemical transformation called malolactic fermentation, which converts harsh, apple-like acid into softer lactic acid as the wines settle. Some reds took almost 12 months to finish their malolactic fermentation.
Meanwhile, the 2009 vintage, also now widely found now on shelves here, was generally a little better. To draw a gross generalization, reds fared slightly better in 2009 than 2008. The reverse may be true of whites, which are based on chardonnay and generally ripen earlier on the vine. In Chablis, Burgundy's northernmost district, known for crisp, mineral-flavoured whites, 2008 was especially good. For example, I recently tasted a standout Chablis Premier Cru 2008 from William Fèvre with winemaker Didier Seguier in Toronto among several other very good Fèvre wines. It won't be released until May and, at $29.95, is a bargain for a Premier Cru. Stay tuned for a note on that release.
Most, though not all, of the following wines are being released today in Ontario through Vintages stores. These are versatile, medium-bodied wines, the reds ideal for salmon, roast chicken, duck or pork, the whites generally good for chicken or fish. They're not cheap, of course. But high prices are a more dependable reality than sunny weather when it comes to Burgundy.
Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 2007 (France)
SCORE: 92 PRICE: $79.95
There's impressive structure and ripeness in this premier cru red, which shows a seductive berry-jam core, nuances of earth and minerals, framed by fine-grained tannins and crisp acidity. The finish is long and lightly savoury.
Château de Puligny Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux 2007 (France)
SCORE: 92 PRICE: $84.95
Creamy in texture but with a delectably tangy edge, this deliciously rich white offers up buttered apple, hazelnut and vanilla flavours, with well-integrated oak.
Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Grands Charrons 2008 (France)
SCORE: 91 PRICE: $42.95
There's a dramatic flavour arc to this medium full-bodied white from a dependable producer: Sweet lemon is perked up by lively acidity and a seam of invigorating mineral.
Alain Geoffroy Chablis Beauroy 2008 (France)
SCORE: 91 PRICE: $24.95
This is a good example of the crisp, classic Chablis style that emerged in 2008. Well-ripened pear-apple fruit marries with complementary floral and mineral notes. Attractively well-priced for a premier cru.
Domaine Roux Père & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes 2009 (France)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $38.95
This white is creamy and seamless, with a ripe, buttered-peach and tropical-fruit core, well-integrated oak, a hint of vanilla and a firm spine of acidity.
Domaine Saint Saturnin de Vergy Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2009 (France)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $18.95
Juicy acid sets off flavours of apple and citrus and the slightest hints of nuts and stone in this crisp white.
Daniel Rion Nuits-St-Georges Les Lavières 2008 (France)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $47.95
A blast of allspice gives way to a soft texture, berries and chewy tannins in this relatively full-bodied red.
Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay 2009 (France)
SCORE: 88 PRICE: $14.70
Widely available across Ontario in the regular, non-Vintages section of the store, this bargain white is silky, with apple, pineapple and pear flavours and a toasty nuance.
Pierre Andre Bourgogne Pinot Noir Reserve Vieilles Vignes 2009 (France)
SCORE: 87 PRICE: $16.05
Here's a modest red Burgundy, also widely available across Ontario, that I found a little too sharp in the 2008 vintage. This 2009 is considerably better, bright and juicy, with good berry-fruit character and an herbal nuance.
Vincent Morin Lacombe Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009 (France)
SCORE: 87 PRICE: $16.95
Another well-priced, entry-level red Burgundy, with pure cherry fruit and chewy tannins. You may want to decant it prior to serving.
Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery The Census Count Chardonnay 2009 (British Columbia)
SCORE: 87 PRICE: $14.95
It's not a Burgundy but a well-priced white available in B.C. and Alberta as well as Ontario. Medium-bodied, round and silky, it shows pear, caramel and light spice, with well-integrated oak and a fresh finish. The B.C. price is $12.99 and the suggested retail in Alberta is $10.99. It's a versatile wine for food.
Hillside Estate Pinotage 2009 (B.C.)
SCORE: 89 PRICE: $24.99 in B.C. through www.hillsideestate.com
The signature grape of South Africa has found a home on the Okanagan Valley's Naramata Bench. I like the dusty-dry texture and thoroughly dry finish of this medium-bodied red, which carries a more restrained whiff of the sometimes overbearing smokiness you'll find in most South African examples. Try it with roast chicken or vegetarian dishes in tomato sauce.