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Bitterness has never been a strong suit of big-brand domestic brews. The giants assume, or perhaps know, that most Canadians want their beer cold and smooth and, well, just that. This new offering from Molson is not a major departure, but it does deliver more of a hoppy – or bitter – quality than the rest of the Rickard's lineup. Billed as a German-style pilsner, it's clear, golden and refreshingly clean, with traces of citrus and licorice and a little kick of un-Canadian bitterness on the finish. Kudos to Molson for pushing the envelope, however modestly.

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About the Author
Life columnist

Beppi Crosariol writes about wine and spirits in the Globe Life and Style sections.He has been The Globe's wine and spirits columnist for more than 10 years. In the late 1990s, he also wrote a food trends column called The Biting Edge.Beppi used to cover business law for ROB and previously edited the paper's weekly technology section. More

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