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We're into statement-wine season. By which I mean posh labels and nosebleed prices, not necessarily liquids that have much to say. Sometimes the two don't intersect.

I hope that doesn't sound too cynical. I've been wowed by many trophies while previewing a Santa's sleigh-worth of holiday-timed retail releases. Some will be featured here over the coming weeks as well as in the weekday Life section and on my Twitter feed. Many, as you can imagine, have been of the hyper-extracted, teeth-staining, high-alcohol red variety that seems favoured by well-heeled gift givers. I'm tempted to call them Donald Trump wines but that's off the mark given that Trump drinks no alcohol and thinks wine, even in moderation, is a bad idea.

Today I'd like to mention a few genuinely impressive, pricey reds before turning, in the detailed reviews below, to more affordable products. Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone 2009 (score 96, $101.95 in Ontario) is a single-vineyard, highly limited bottling from a leading producer of Amarone, the Veneto region's regal red style. It tips the scale at 16-per-cent alcohol yet displays remarkable complexity and elegant balance for its weight, layered with dried cherry, raisin, tobacco, spice and so much more. From the same winery, just released in a generous double-size magnum bottle in Ontario, at $149.95, is Masi Riserva Costasera Amarone 2009 (score 93), another superb offering, with overtones of chocolate and espresso.

In terms of popular recognition, L'Aventure Optimus 2013 (94, $82.95 in Ontario) may not rank in the top tier of California cult reds even at its hefty price, but it's a tour-de-force from a French winemaker who said au revoir to humid Bordeaux and settled in sunny Paso Robles. It's a monster-truck-sized blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot that's far from lazy like so many overripe reds that pass for greatness in America.

From Niagara and also from a native Frenchman, J-L Groux, comes Stratus Red 2012 (92, $44.20), a terrific effort from a good year for the estate's richly textured and tannic flagship blend. And from British Columbia, there are the collector– worthy Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2010 (91, $39.99 in British Columbia, various prices in other provinces, also available in British Columbia in 1.5-, 3– and 6-litre formats for big-statement gift giving); and Painted Rock Merlot 2013 (92, $34.69, for more information visit www.paintedrock.ca), a firm, cedary-savoury, structured red for the cellar.

Château Rahoul 2010 (France)

SCORE: 91 PRICE: $29.95

Bordeaux's excellent 2010 growing season provided a shot in the arm not only to famous and ultra-expensive brands that get too much attention but also to estates such as this. Located in the Graves district, it's a blend of 79-per-cent merlot, 19-per cent cabernet sauvignon and 2-per-cent petit verdot. Smooth and chewy, showing excellent ripeness and density, it suggests plum jam, dark chocolate, licorice, minerals and leather. Approachable now, particularly if you're serving steak, and worth cellaring for up to 8 years. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $29.75 in Quebec, $27.30 in Newfoundland.

Chateau Teyssier Montagne Saint-Émilion 2010 (France)

SCORE: 90 PRICE: $24.95

Located on the right bank of the Dordogne river, this is one of many properties to rely on the Midas touch of famed consulting oenologist Michel Rolland. Mostly merlot, with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, the 2010 Teyssier (not to be confused with the more expensive "grand cru" wine from nearby also called Château Teyssier – and that certainly can be confusing) is very attractive Bordeaux for the money. Medium-full-bodied, with excellent mid-palate weight and velvety texture, it hints at plum sauce and currants, with a fetching earthy, leafy-underbrush quality. Roast beef would be nice. A good candidate for up to eight years in the cellar. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.

JoieFarm PTG (British Columbia)

SCORE: 90 PRICE: $23.90

This is worthy of icon status in Canada as far as I'm concerned, not because it's big but because it's lean, brave and beautiful. Few pinot noir producers would dream of blending that hallowed red grape with anything else. Yet they do so in Burgundy – pinot's hallowed ground – in the form of an underappreciated, modest quaff called passetoutgrains, a blend of supple, jammy pinot with crisp, peppery gamay. It's a wine that dares thumb its nose in the direction of snobs, particularly pinot fanatics of the Sideways ilk. Joie smartly dubs this joyful, excellent blend "PTG," a handy initialization of passetoutgrains. Light and crisp, the 2013 is chiselled with tangy acidity and piquant cracked pepper, with bright raspberry, herbs, an earthy, root-vegetable base note and hint of gamay's happy pink bubble gum. The pale colour would be enough to send many red enthusiasts running, so don't consider it if you're looking for a Tyrannosaurus red to pair with a side of mastodon that you'll be consuming with a chainsaw and pitchfork. Great for grilled salmon, charcuterie or roast chicken. Available at the above price in British Columbia, $35 in Alberta.

Pirramimma White Label Shiraz 2013 (Australia)

SCORE: 92 PRICE: $24.95

Such a consistent winery. The 2013 shiraz is inky-dark and velvety, with succulent, juicy fruit and strong notes of pepper and throat-clearing eucalyptus, remarkably balanced for its 14.8-per-cent alcohol. $28.49 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $20.27 in Newfoundland.

Bleasdale Frank Potts 2012 (Australia)

SCORE: 90 PRICE: $27.95

Oenologically speaking, Australia may be at polar opposites with France in many ways. The wines tend to be louder and the grape blends often tradition-flouting. Here's a full-bodied red that slavishly follows the classic Bordeaux formula, mostly cabernet sauvignon with malbec, petit verdot, merlot and cabernet franc. Gutsy and dense with sweet plum jam, it's balanced by tangy acidity and peppery spice, with an herbal, tobacco depth (is that the cab franc speaking?) and a touch of mint. Lamb chops would carry it to a fine finish. Various prices in Alberta.

Terredora Falanghina 2014 (Italy)

SCORE: 89 PRICE: $16.95

Oily weight yet dry and not heavy, with a welcome mineral-stony edge to the apple-citrus fruit. A well-crafted white from a good producer in the hills east of Naples. $19.49 in British Columbia.

Quieto 3 Malbec 2009 (Argentina)

SCORE: 89 PRICE: $17.95

Still youthful at six years, this full-bodied red delivers a mix of sweet plum, darkroast coffee and bracing spice. Serve it with grilled meats or hearty stews. Available in Ontario.

Giacomo Mori Chianti 2012 (Italy)

SCORE: 89 PRICE: $19.95

Classically styled Tuscan sangiovese, with plenty of woodsy depth and salty tang, this medium-full-bodied red is generously fruity yet lively, with a smoky undertone and sweet spice. Available in Ontario.

Château Hauchat 2011 (France)

SCORE: 88 PRICE: $15.95

Located in Fronsac, a good-value appellation just west of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion, Hauchat relies on just one variety rather, and that's merlot. The 2011 is a Bordeaux bargain, medium-weight and juicy, with good flesh for its size and a tight structure built around chalky, dry tannins. Try it with steak. Available in Ontario.

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