Welcome to another edition of 90-points-plus. This will ruffle some feathers, I know. I read a blog post recently by a U.S. importer who decried the curse of 90-plus scores. As a popular industry exaggeration goes, you can't keep a 90-point wine in stock and below 90 you can't give it away. The importer wrote in a tone suggesting a grand jury unearthing a monumental deceit. His basic argument: Point scores disingenuously pawn off opinion as mathematical truth.
The lament is patently unfair. In fact, I'd say the importer missed the mark by precisely 100 per cent. Numbers quantify; that's what they do. They can quantify subjective experience as well as such objective facts as the volume of a beer keg or the alcohol concentration of a chardonnay.
Wine aficionados "score" all the time, even when they don't know they're doing it. Consider someone trying to verbally distinguish the quality of two wines. In reference to the first glass, the person might say, in a normal conversational tone, "I really like this chardonnay." In referring to the second wine, he or she might utter the same words, only this time at louder volume and with a stress on the word "really," as in, "I REALLY like this wine!" Same literal meaning, two distinct messages: The second wine tastes better to the judge.
That taster might eschew numerical scores, but a scientist could measure the relative enthusiasm with a decibel meter. Let's say the first "really" measures 60 decibels (typical conversational volume), while the second swings the needle to 75. There's your point score: 60 versus 75. It's just like those corny TV talent contests that decide winners based on audience applause. Is the judgment itself more objective because it's represented by numbers? Nobody ever pretended it was.
Doctors often ask patients to quantify pain on a scale of one to 10 when, say, they're poking at a bruise. They know pain is subjective, but people have all sorts of ways to describe their sensations in words. Numbers force patients to focus and communicate in a way that's meaningful to the doctor (usually as a supplement to a verbal description). A scream of agony would be just as useful, I suppose, but then we're back to decibels.
I hope you'll find more pleasure than pain in the following selections, especially the fine whisky that kicks off the notes.
The Balvenie Aged 15 Years Single Barrel (Scotland)
SCORE: 94 PRICE: $134.95
This Speyside single malt's journey on the palate is full of surprises, beginning with a creamy, luscious texture that turns satisfyingly dry on the finish, with flavour stops at malted barley, roasted nuts, fruit and spice. Each bottle comes from a single barrel (there are about 350 bottles per barrel), so the inventory currently in Ontario may differ in flavour and strength from bottles sold elsewhere – and this 47.8-per cent- alcohol spirit is a winner. It's a crowning achievement for The Balvenie's David Stewart, who this year celebrates his 50th year in the business, the longest-serving Scotch malt master in the industry. Available in Ontario.
Castello di Nipozzano Mormoreto 2008 (Italy)
SCORE: 93 PRICE: $59
A Tuscan blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot from a single site, this full-bodied, smooth and succulent red has high-end-Bordeaux complexity and finesse. Expect rich cassis, chocolate, espresso and mineral notes as well as some tannic backbone. Try it with rare lamb or cellar it for up to 15 more years. $59.99 in British Columbia, $60.50 in Quebec.
Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains 2007 (California)
SCORE: 92 PRICE: $49.95
The blend is 58-per-cent cabernet sauvignon with 42-per-cent merlot, full-bodied and brimming with cassis, vanilla, spice and mouth-watering acidity. Lots of fine, non-aggressive tannins should enable it to cellar well for a dozen years, though it could flatter medium-rare steak today. The excellent 2008 vintage, renamed Ridge Cabernet Estate, is available in British Columbia for $54.99.
Santa Duc Les Garancières Gigondas 2009 (France)
SCORE: 91 PRICE: $27.95
Mainly soft grenache with firmer syrah and mourvèdre, this red is full and luscious, with dark fruit supported by seductive earthiness and fine, dry tannins. Cellar it for up to 10 years or pair it with rare lamb or stews. Available in Ontario.
Mike Weir Riesling 2008 (Ontario)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $14.95
Named best white wine at the 2011 All Canadian Wine Championships, this selection delivers classic riesling flavours of peach, lime and mineral and a hint of petrol in an off-dry style. It's a splendid match for smoked or simply prepared freshwater fish. Available in Ontario.
Valminor Albarino 2010 (Spain)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $15.95
From Spain's relatively cool northwest Rias Baixas appellation, this is a fresh, citrusy white, light-bodied yet with a seductively silky middle. Ideal for simple shellfish. Available in Ontario.
Château de Montmal Fitou 2009 (France)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $17.95
Fitou is a district of the southern Languedoc region, source of hearty, full-bodied reds. The Château de Montmal offers up dark, juicy berry along with licorice, meaty pan juices and spice. It's smooth but with a kick of acidity on the finish to keep things lively. Pair this bargain with braised meats. Available in Ontario.
Peller Estates Ice Cuvée Rosé (Ontario)
SCORE: 90 PRICE: $35.20
An inspired sparkling wine spiked with a dollop of cabernet franc icewine, this stuff does brisk business at the winery's popular tasting room. Now on LCBO shelves in Ontario, it's subtly sweet, with seductive strawberry jam and stone fruit flavours balanced by fine bubbles and acidity. Sexy wine. The excellent white counterpart to this rosé, Peller Ice Cuvée, sells for $32.29 in Manitoba and $24.99 in Nova Scotia.
Domaine des Richards Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2010 (France)
SCORE: 92 PRICE: $16.95
A sweet, fortified dessert wine from the Rhône Valley, muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise pairs admirably with a range of desserts, its aromatic, grapey quality and spiciness coasting above rich pastries. This is wellbalanced, with a silky texture and prominent table-grape flavour with a long, spicy finish. It would also be splendid with tangy cheeses such as Roquefort or cheddar. Available in Ontario.