"Church key" – it's a nickname for those old, double-edged openers, the kind with a pointy end for piercing pre-pull-top cans and a rounder end for bottle caps. It's also the name of this fine brewery near Campbellford in Eastern Ontario, which operates out of a former church. The company's take on extra-hopped American Pale Ale, this 5-per-cent brew is well-rounded, with a floral-herbal aroma that leads to flavours of orange, tangerine, pine and caramel-like malt. Dark golden, it displays moderate carbonation and a bitter bite that I would not describe as fearsome.