I sampled this beauty from the house of Louis Roederer with sales director Frederick Heidsieck, who described 2004 as a "generous" vintage. Those familiar with the brand know this means the growing season produced more ample fruit flavour than usual and less of that austere mineral quality that comes from cooler vintages. Expect notes of candied fruit, tangy lemon and toasted bread. While cellar-worthy, it's drinking nicely now.