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wine review

One glance at the transparent-glass bottle tells you this is no ordinary sauvignon blanc. Cloudy with sediment, it's a so-called natural wine. That category is a hit-or-miss proposition, but this is clearly (if you'll pardon the sediment pun) a hit. Fermented with native yeast in stainless steel and left to mature on grape skins for nine months, it's gently pressed, given two more months' rest and bottled unfiltered, with no sulphur dioxide or other additives. Medium-bodied, it's round and almost off-dry, with impressive mid-palate density and flavours that suggest mandarin orange, ripe pear, grapefruit and slightly dried table grapes (as though the latter had been left on the counter a few days). Very offbeat and very impressive. Available direct, okanagancrushpad.com.

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