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Wine review: Mitolo Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Australia

McLaren Vale
Cabernet sauvignon
Food Pairing
Roast beef, roast lamb

Serpico is the flagship of the fine Aussie winery Mitolo. It's made in an unconventional manner for Australian reds, following the Amarone technique of Italy, in which grapes are left to dry on mats for weeks after harvest before they're crushed and fermented. The concentrated berries yield more intense, complex flavours, and the results in this mature gem represent something distinctive for Australia. It's luscious, yes, with a hint of raisin answered by bright acidity. The tannins are substantial but supple, framing nuances of sweet berries, leather, shoe polish and dried aromatic leaves. Think of blackberry jam served in a Prada loafer with a dusting of tea leaves and tobacco. The wine could pass for a men's cologne if it weren't so drinkable. Serve it with roast beef or lamb or cellar it for up to 20 years; $57.99 in Nova Scotia.

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About the Author
Life columnist

Beppi Crosariol writes about wine and spirits in the Globe Life and Style sections.He has been The Globe's wine and spirits columnist for more than 10 years. In the late 1990s, he also wrote a food trends column called The Biting Edge.Beppi used to cover business law for ROB and previously edited the paper's weekly technology section. More


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