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Louis Latour, the big Burgundy négociant, offers an offbeat and novel selection here. "Bourgogne Gamay" is a new appellation legalized in 2011 as a sort of conciliatory bridge between the northern heartland of Burgundy and the sprawling Beaujolais vineyards to the south. While technically part of Burgundy, Beaujolais is generally considered a distinct region especially by northern growers who've long harboured disdain for the less-expensive and supposedly less noble wines. Among red wines, pinot noir is associated with Burgundy (or Bourgogne) proper while the lighter, fruitier gamay is confined to Beaujolais. The fruit in a Bourgogne Gamay must come from the best "Cru" villages of Beaujolais, and the quality shows here. It's light, crisp and juicy, with a sour-cherry flavour that's refined rather than candylike. A good match for many fish dishes and a fine, chillable red for summer; $25.99 in B.C., $18 in Quebec.

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