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Wine review: Louis Latour Bourgogne Gamay 2011, France

Food Pairing

Louis Latour, the big Burgundy négociant, offers an offbeat and novel selection here. "Bourgogne Gamay" is a new appellation legalized in 2011 as a sort of conciliatory bridge between the northern heartland of Burgundy and the sprawling Beaujolais vineyards to the south. While technically part of Burgundy, Beaujolais is generally considered a distinct region especially by northern growers who've long harboured disdain for the less-expensive and supposedly less noble wines. Among red wines, pinot noir is associated with Burgundy (or Bourgogne) proper while the lighter, fruitier gamay is confined to Beaujolais. The fruit in a Bourgogne Gamay must come from the best "Cru" villages of Beaujolais, and the quality shows here. It's light, crisp and juicy, with a sour-cherry flavour that's refined rather than candylike. A good match for many fish dishes and a fine, chillable red for summer; $25.99 in B.C., $18 in Quebec.

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About the Author
Life columnist

Beppi Crosariol writes about wine and spirits in the Globe Life and Style sections.He has been The Globe's wine and spirits columnist for more than 10 years. In the late 1990s, he also wrote a food trends column called The Biting Edge.Beppi used to cover business law for ROB and previously edited the paper's weekly technology section. More


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