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wine review

Pricey, yes, but owner Moray Tawse aims high. And he succeeds admirably here. Yes, the same Tawse behind the nearby winery of the same name. This is his new Niagara venture on property purchased in 2009. Rene Van Ede, who worked at Tawse for eight years under talented winemaker Paul Pender, has stepped out of the shadows to take over duties at this organic and biodynamic estate. Clearly he was given great vines to work with. The 2010 merlot delivers smooth, luscious texture carrying concentrated, sweet cassis, maraschino and chocolate flavours enhanced by dark-roast coffee and cedar. Firm tannins lend backbone to this well-structured, cellar-worthy effort. A beauty for big-meat dishes (www.redstonewines.ca).

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