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The classic red aperitif of Belle Époque France is making a comeback. It's pronounced "beer" but this potation is not made from grain. It's a lightly fortified red wine, at 18-per-cent alcohol, rendered naturally sweet by the grape sugars of macabeu and grenache grown around Thuir, a village in southern France. Created in 1866 by two brothers, Pallade and Simon Violet, it began life like many other aromatized alcoholic beverages of the day, as a medicinal drink sold in pharmacies. Later it found a home in countless bistros, and by 1935 it was reportedly France's leading aperitif brand, advertised in beautiful posters that have become collector's items.

The sweet, alcohol-spiced base is infused with, among other things, coffee, bitter orange and cocoa as well as cinchona bark, source of the alkaloid quinine contained in tonic water, which was historically used to treat malaria. Light burgundy in colour, the drink is cherry-like and shows a lifted, herbal, aromatic essence – like red vermouth but more subtle. The coffee and orange notes come through with a whisper, as does the bitter tang of the bark.

Today, Byrrh is sprouting up in watering holes again, thanks to the mixology boom and restless flavour exploration of smart young barkeeps, who might substitute it for red Italian vermouth in such drinks as the Manhattan. Traditionally served cool, with a lemon twist or slice of orange, or on the rocks prior to a meal, it's also nice on ice with an equal part of tonic water (say, one ounce to one ounce), along with a splash of fresh lemon juice.

And for something more modern, the company suggests a stronger and compelling sweet cocktail called the Byrrh Blood & Sand: one part Byrrh, one part Scotch whisky, one part freshly squeezed orange juice and one part Cherry Heering liqueur – on the rocks. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.80 in Quebec.

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