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Cabernet is not the usual fare of Umbria, the landlocked region next to Tuscany. But in this place better known for sagrantino, sangiovese and Orvieto, the red French grape seems to have a deserved place, as this bargain would attest. Medium-full-bodied, smooth and simultaneously juicy, it suggests plum, blackberry jam, chocolate and spice, with supple, integrated tannins. Available in Ontario.

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