Yes, that's a 93-point score for a pinot grigio (forgive me, Bacchus, for I know that pinot grigio is not on your list of exalted grape forms). And, yes, the price is a lofty $27.95. But this is no forgettable, watery wedding-banquet white. It's a revelation to anyone convinced that the Italian way with "pinot gris" (a.k.a. grigio) is never more than cheap and cheerful. Oily-textured and substantial, at a surprising 14.5-per-cent alcohol, this example from the northeast Sudtirol region, just below the breezy Alps, delivers its surprise in the form of tangerine, pear, fleshy tropical fruit and flowers. Subtle harmony. Available in Ontario.