Nogne O – spelled with lines running through both "o"s from top-right to bottom-left, like a no-entry symbol – means "naked island." The brewery based its name not on the nude beach off Toronto's waterfront but on a line from Henrik Ibsen, the Norwegian playwright, who was apparently describing one of many rocky outcroppings off Norway's southern coast. Two home brewers started this craft operation 10 years ago and they now make more than 20 styles of ale as well as sake, the Japanese rice beverage. The Two Captains is remarkably balanced, inspired by the bitter West Coast India Pale Ale styles of North America. It's heavily hopped yet balanced by rounded fruit suggesting apricot and orange. A pine-like aroma wafts over it all. A delicious luxury. Available in Ontario in select stores.