Fifty years ago, the Valiano estate was owned by Giovanni Gronchi, Tuscan-born former president of the Italian Republic. It's now in the hands of another family. The 2008 Poggio Teo, named after one of those postcard-perfect Tuscan hills, shows excellent concentration for the money, with berry preserves and dark chocolate supporting substantial tannins. A tad austere at the moment, it should open up with decanting or three to five years in the cellar.