North Saanich has more horses per square kilometre than anywhere else in British Columbia.Sue Ferguson
I’d never heard of North Saanich, B.C., until Prince Harry and Meghan Markle decided to holiday there over Christmas. Where exactly is it anyway? Maybe I should check it out, too.
You’re not alone. North Saanich is a rural municipality on southern Vancouver Island, with fewer than 12,000 people, so it doesn’t get attention like Victoria does, 30 minutes away. But North Saanich is home to Victoria International Airport and the Swartz Bay ferry terminal so chances are you’ve driven through it on a trip to Victoria and just didn’t know it.
Should I linger longer next time?
Only if you appreciate bucolic landscapes dotted with cows and sheep, shorelines with quiet coves and idyllic beaches, walking and hiking trails galore and charming roadside stands selling flowers and produce. If you enjoy food, North Saanich is also a bit of a hotbed for farm-to-table experiences.
That reminds me, it was because of some restaurant turning down Harry and Meghan that I heard about North Saanich in the first place. What was that all about?
That was unfortunate. Not that they were turned down, but because the area’s most esteemed eating establishment – the Deep Cove Chalet – got some bad press and angry e-mails as a result. The chalet is perennially popular and people would have made reservations for the Christmas holiday weeks, if not months, in advance. So the place was fully booked. You can’t blame the owners for honouring those bookings, can you?
It's the place to be if you appreciate bucolic landscapes dotted with cows and sheep, shorelines with quiet coves and idyllic beaches, walking and hiking trails galore.Sue Ferguson
You’ve got a point. But why is it so popular?
In three words, classical French cuisine. But it’s more than that. The chalet looks west over the Saanich Inlet and the mountains beyond. In summer especially, it’s delightful to stroll the manicured lawn and garden. Indoors, soft candlelight creates a warm ambiance. Pierre Koffel, the chef and co-owner, is a perfectionist, while his wife, Bev, is a gracious hostess, chatting with regulars and taking time to make newcomers feel at home. And the food …
Yes, tell me about the food.
You can’t expect poor scribes to eat there – a three-course meal with wine and tip will set you back about $100 each – but my more prosperous friends tell me the food is consistently excellent. Think traditional French dishes such as duck bouillon in a foie gras puff pastry or quail Normandie with apples, cream and calvados. Rabbit, lamb, beef and seafood are all on the menu, too. The wine list is even more extensive.
You’re making me hungry. But if this place is so expensive and hard to get into, where else might I go?
For dinner, try Porto Osteria in Canoe Cove. It’s simple, unpretentious Italian food. They make all their pasta and bread from scratch. Thursday nights are flight nights with trios of wine. For lunch, the Roost is popular for soups and sandwiches. It began as a bakery and became locally famous when the authors of the 100-Mile Diet cited it as a source for red spring wheat.
On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays head to the Dakota Cafe, by the airport. Locals line up for their made-from-scratch wonton soup. If you’re looking for picnic fare, stop at the Deep Cove Market or the Fickle Fig. By the way, Harry was spotted shopping at the Fig. Maybe he wanted to surprise Meghan with a loaf of fresh focaccia or a jar of blackberry jam.
So back to the Royals, what else did they do, so I might copy them?
All we know is that they hiked in Horth Hill Regional Park, because locals spotted them there twice. But honestly, the trails there are a muddy mess from people horseback riding. North Saanich has more horses per square kilometre than anywhere else in British Columbia, or so they say.
Serious hikers should head instead to John Dean Provincial Park, recently renamed LAU WELNEW/John Dean, to include the First Nations’ name for it, where you’ll find old-growth Douglas fir trees and sweeping views over the American San Juan Islands.
And if you’re a cyclist, you can circumnavigate the airport on a paved, family-friendly trail.
Serious hikers should head instead to John Dean Provincial Park, where you’ll find old-growth Douglas fir trees and sweeping views over the American San Juan Islands.Jeanette Jackson/Handout
Those both sound pretty strenuous. Anything easier?
The footpath along Patricia Bay, with its large tidal flat, is lovely any time of day and particularly at sunset. You’ll also see planes on their approach to the airport.
And what if I prefer water to land?
No problem. With water on three sides – North Saanich is at the tip of the Saanich Peninsula – there’s 40 kilometres of shoreline to explore. Head to Canoe Cove and rent a kayak or canoe. You’ll see seals flopped on rocky islets and bald eagles gazing from treetops. If you prefer underwater, Rockfish Divers will take you scuba diving. The marine life is amazing, including delicate nudibranchs and lion’s mane jellyfish.
Is there shopping?
Most of us go into Sidney, next door, to shop for everyday items, but North Saanich boasts interesting one-of-a-kind businesses. Inca Dinca Do, for instance, operates a fibre mill, and even if you don’t have any wool to be spun, stop to see their adorable herd of long-lashed alpacas or to buy kiwi fruit. Speaking of fruit, the owners of Fruit Trees and More pioneered growing citrus trees in the area. You’ll be amazed by their fully loaded lemon trees. And at the Saturday morning market in Deep Cove, look for handmade fruit pies. Scrumptious!
And what if I just want to chill?
Well, the Pacific Ocean is cold year-round.
That’s not what I meant.
Oh, you mean relax? Buy a bottle of estate wine from the Deep Cove Winery and a copy of the West Coast classic memoir The Curve of Time and find yourself a beach.
What about accommodation?
Harry and Meghan stayed at a multimillion-dollar waterfront mansion owned by Russian oligarch Yuri Milner, who is friends with musician David Foster, who is friends with the Royals. If you don’t have those kinds of connections, there are plenty of charming bed and breakfasts. Chances are, you’ll soon be looking to buy your own piece of real estate anyway in this B.C. paradise.
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