With nine terminals, 75 airlines, more than 66 million annual passengers and an economic output of about $40-billion (U.S.), the Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) can feel like a city unto itself.
And that's now truer than ever, with Los Angeles welcoming a record number of visitors last year. The city is home to a white-hot arts scene that's rivalling New York and (believe it or not) receiving accolades for starting to break free from it's car-centric culture (The New York Times named it one of America's most pedestrian-friendly cities). To accommodate the extra traffic, the airport will continue to grow, with a new international concourse set to open in 2019.
Unfortunately, the massive scale of LAX has earned it a reputation as being one of the world's worst airports to transit through. But for travellers flying to points in the Pacific and Asia, it's often unavoidable. With the right advice, however, you might even find yourself enjoying your brief stay.
As of press time, flights in and out of LAX remain unaffected by the California wildfires. Driving times to the airport may take longer than usual from certain parts of the state.
Los Angeles welcomed a record number of visitors last year, meaning the airport will continue to grow.
Getting oriented
Situated sequentially along a big U-shape (with the Tom Bradley International Terminal located at the lowest dip of the "U"), the airport's nine passenger terminals are connected by a double-decker, multilane roadway. A train is in the works, but at present, passengers changing terminals have two options: You can either grab an airport bus (which constantly cycle through the "U") or hoof it. The latter can sometimes be faster, as LA's legendary traffic often clogs the roadway. Insider tip: "If you miss your connection and get stuck here at LAX, you can call hotels and ask for a 'distressed passenger rate,' which is usually much lower than you would normally pay," advises Adrian Lee, a ticket agent who retired last year after working at the airport for 17 years.
If you have two hours
Because some of the buildings are not linked internally, many connecting passengers will have to exit and then re-clear security in the next terminal, so factor in extra time to allow for (often long and slow-moving) security lines. Under certain circumstances (such as moving from Terminal 1 to 9), even a 90-minute connection can feel tight.
But if you're flying through the Tom Bradley International Terminal – which unveiled a stunning $1.5-billion facelift in 2014 – make sure to pause and appreciate the largest immersive multimedia installation in any airport, anywhere. Created by Montreal-based Moment Factory, seven screens – which includes a 24-metre "Welcome Wall" – display hours of original content, shot on three continents with time-lapse photography and ultra-high-speed filming. The seven-storey Time Tower, for example, opens up on the top of the hour to dance extravaganzas a la Busby Berkeley.
Have a few more more minutes to spare? Tom Bradley also boasts some of the airport's better restaurants, many of them concourse-based versions of well-known local brick-and-mortar joints. At Border Grill, a modern Mexican restaurant founded by two celebrity chefs, with locations in downtown L.A. and Las Vegas, you can get some of the city's best guacamole and enchiladas. And you can raise a glass and toast to a great trip at Petrossian, a champagne and caviar bar.
Sip some bubbly (or one of 20 top-shelf vodkas) inside the terminal, or plan to skip the lukewarm airline food by taking one of their insulated carry-on picnic packs onboard (choose from caviar, charcuterie and Parisian smoked salmon).
LAX has nine terminals, 75 airlines and more than 66 million annual passengers.
If you have four hours
For travellers feeling energetic, In-N-Out Burger – a true California classic – has an outpost about a kilometre outside the terminals (although some sneaky folks save their legs and ride the free Parking Spot shuttle to the Sepulveda location, which is right across the street). And aviation hotspot the Proud Bird is literally, directly across the road from the runways.
Founded by a Second World War pilot, the space is populated by vintage planes as well as a food hall with six dining options (including down-home barbecue and chicken and waffles). Stuff yourself for a long journey with their weekend $30 all-you-can-eat brunch.
LAX's seaside location means you can breathe in some fresh salty air before being stuck in another flying tin can for eight hours. Head just north (for no more than $5-$10 in a cab or Uber) and stroll among the sails at Marina del Rey (you'll find a few good restaurants there, too).
Or head south to Manhattan Beach, El Segundo and Hermosa Beach. At the latter, dine at Scotty's on the Strand, a cool spot with good comfort food, vintage blue-vinyl booths and huge windows looking out onto the Pacific.
For travellers flying to points in the Pacific and Asia, LAX is often unavoidable.
If you have six hours
Because its first runways took shape decades ago (city council first set aside several hundred seaside acres of wheat fields for a new air strip in 1928), LAX is remarkably well situated, with the metropolis growing up around it. There's even a light-rail station (Aviation/LAX, on Metro Rail's green line) connected to the airport, and from there you can ride deep into the heart of southern Los Angeles and down to Redondo Beach. You can also take one of the blue FlyAway buses, which travel direct to Union Station, dropping passengers within walking distance of downtown food and attractions, including Olvera Street – the "birthplace of Los Angeles" – which is lined with taco stands and shops selling Mexican wares. It's not unusual to spot a roving mariachi band.
But this is L.A., which means heavy traffic is always a distinct possibility. Your best bet to experience a bit of the city and make it back to the gate for your flight is to set your sights on points closer – up the coast. You can make to it Venice Beach, with its charming weirdos and gritty pleasures, in about 15 minutes (more in rush hour, of course). Or head to Santa Monica (a further five-minute cab ride) and walk its world-famous beach, stroll the pedestrianized Third Street Promenade and ride its iconic roller coaster on the pier. With luck, it'll tire you out enough so that you'll actually be able to grab some shut-eye on the next leg.