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Soaking rains, thick mists and then, unparalleled beauty

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I’m descending a long ridge toward the valley town of Valleraugue, with endless Cevennes ridges stretching to sunny horizon. A perfect day. Our destination is somewhere hours away in the distance.

Liz Allemang

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On this hike, we’re rising above the clouds on long ridge walk above the village of Molières.

Liz Allemang

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A stone bridge in the tiny hamlet of Serres.

Editor's Note: An earlier version of this caption identified this bridge as one that crosses the river Vis in the village of Navacelles. This version has been corrected.

Liz Allemang

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Liz overlooks the gorge of Jonte, near Le Rozier. Our hotel was in the valley far below.

John Allemang/The Globe and Mail

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We saw this lizard on warm exposed south-facing rock high above the river Jonte. Still feels like the Mediterranean in spots.

Liz Allemang

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This is an old stone farmhouse on the limestone plateau, where building materials are hard to come by – hence the heavy and awkward roof tiles. Many of these old habitations have been abandoned, but they still resonate with the history of upland survival.

Liz Allemang

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Unofficial directions to the nearest spot on the trail to spend the night.

Liz Allemang

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