From my saddle, I looked out at the crashing waves off the rocky coast of the Mediterranean Sea and marvelled that this view – this "unknown view of Minorca" that I had been promised – was exactly that. Travelling Minorca's 186-kilometre Cami de Cavalls trail by horseback offers a taste of this small Spanish island. And autumn is the best time of year to visit.
The Cami de Cavalls is an ancient path circumnavigating Minorca that dates back to as early as the 14th Century. Once used by horsemen to patrol the island between watchtowers, it now beckons to trekkers, cyclists and the occasional equestrian. Temperatures in October hover in the 16 to 24 C range, downright balmy for those seeking to extend their summer with an autumn getaway.
The path is simply breathtaking. Much of it rocky and steep, it seems impossible that a horse could navigate its near-vertical, cliff-side route, yet here is where history and culture collide. Today, horses that are descendants of the great stallions once used to patrol the island have adapted to the rocky terrain and have an uncanny ability to move through the path with reassuring agility. Our guide gave us one simple instruction during our week-long trek: "Trust the horses." The horses did not disappoint.
Guides on Minorca have one instruction for riders: ‘Trust the horses.’ Minorcan stallions possess a spirited independence that has been bred into them for centuries.
Minorcan horses possess a spirited independence that has been bred into them for centuries. One of the island's best-known traditions is simply called "Festival," the biggest of which is the Sant Joan Fiestas, held in late June in the centre of Ciutadella, one of Minorca's largest cities. Here, thousands of revellers celebrate the patron St. John the Baptist, and the Minorcan stallion is at centre stage. Men known as
los caixers y cavallers wear black and white and adorn their horses with ribbons and multicoloured rosettes. The los caixers y cavallers parade through town and their stallions rear up and walk on their hind legs amid the cheering crowd. Only the most respected and qualified riders are allowed into the annual event, and families prepare nearly a year in advance for this one weekend.
These coveted stallions are too rambunctious for most vacationing equestrians, so on the Cami de Cavalls, guides Maria Elena Dendaluce and Catalina Florit offer well-trained mares that know the trail well. Knowing that these horses were bred for their work gave me confidence. As an inexperienced rider, I felt reassured knowing that while I was holding the reins, the real brains behind this adventure were the horses.
The trek, called "The Unknown Views of Minorca," includes five days of challenging riding along some of the most scenic sections of the trail. Nights are spent at picturesque Minorcan inns and villas. Authentic, finely prepared meals at off-the-beaten-track spots are provided every step of the way.
"I picked that name because I feel that you really do see the island on a horse in a way that you wouldn't be able to any other way," said Dendaluce, who owns Equiberia, a horse-riding tour company based in mainland Spain, and partners with lifelong Minorcans Florit and Antonio Moll, owners of the local riding company, Cavalls Son Angel.
Visitors can embark on a five-day ‘Unknown Views of Minorca’ trek on horseback through the island’s most scenic locations.
My horse's name was Xirola, and within the first hour of riding her, I came to trust her completely. I figured she had me pegged as inexperienced immediately. However, she did not take advantage of this lack of horsemanship, rather she seemed to adjust to my awkward manoeuvres and forged ahead patiently. On the uphills, I followed the lead of the veteran riders in our group, leaning slightly forward in the saddle to balance my weight. On the near-vertical descents, I likewise leaned back in the saddle, silently repeating Florit's advice to trust the horses as they picked their way amid the loose rocks.
In five days of riding, we covered roughly 80 kilometres of terrain – less than half of the entire Cami de Cavalls, but its most scenic parts. The first three days, we travelled along the more rugged and remote northern part of the island, while the last two days were spent in the warmer, southern region, where we often dipped into canyons and lush, verdant forests before popping out again along the ocean. Often, we would traverse right into touristy, seaside towns, clopping along the streets in a 10-horse conga line that drew surprised stares from the swimsuit-clad sunbathers.
On our fourth afternoon, we emerged from the forest and approached the small tourist town of Santo Tomas, which featured a large beach and would be a stopping point for our lunch. I assumed we would skirt around the town's edge, but instead, Florit directed us along a boardwalk packed with tourists. There, we paraded by while kids wrapped in beach towels shrieked " caballo, caballo!" to their parents. We reached our destination, Es Brucs, a cliff-side restaurant with an expansive view of the sea, featuring locally caught seafood. Here, we would spend nearly two hours eating at a leisurely European pace that allows one to fully savour the food, friendship and surroundings.
In five days of riding horseback, one may cover roughly 80 kilometres of Minorcan terrain – less than half of the entire 186-kilometre Cami de Cavalls trail, which dates back to as early as the 14th century.
Indeed, Minorca is a special place in an already special country, a microcosm of Spanish culture that is even slower-paced and less crowded – especially when compared to its more tourist-driven and populated neighbouring island of Majorca. It's why Dendaluce keeps this ride on her yearly itinerary.
"The Mediterranean is definitely a distinctive part of the Spanish history," she said. "Minorca, having its own breed of horses, the Menorquin, made it even more unique."
By my fifth day of riding, I knew exactly how Dendaluce felt. Despite my lack of experience and jitters over the challenging terrain (and it was challenging; if you come here, make sure you are in good shape), this island's magical horses and natural beauty make it a destination unlike any other.
If you go
The best time to visit Minorca is in the spring and autumn, as it gets quite busy with European travellers at the height of summer.
Equiberia offers trips year-round, including two Unknown Views of Minorca trips, in September and October.
equiberia.com.
Cavalls Son Angel offers trips ranging from a couple of hours to multi-day outings.
cavallssonangel.com.
Cycling and hiking also are popular on the island. For details on Minorca in general, visit
menorca.es.
The writer was a guest of Equiberia. It did not review or approve this article.