Averill Creek Pinot Noir 2008 Vancouver Island $27.99
When sampling the output of many Vancouver Island wineries, something is missing: a sense of place. Those places don't grow their own grapes, they buy them from the Okanagan. Not so with Andy Johnston, a physician who grew up on a farm in Wales and founded more than 36 walk-in family clinics in Western Canada before turning to making wine. All the fruit for this classic Pinot Noir comes from his 30-acre vineyard in the warm Cowichan Valley. It's cherry-scented with a touch of oak and fresh acidity. This versatile low-alcohol (12 per cent) food wine pairs well with the smokiness and sweetness of barbecue planked salmon with a maple glaze. Available at private wine shops.
Kasey Wilson is food editor of Wine Access magazine and editor of Best Places Vancouver.