Cedar paddles clenched in nervous hands, 30 young paddlers from Masset and Skidegate prepared for the journey of a lifetime, deep into the land of their ancestors.
Cedar paddles clenched in nervous hands, 30 young paddlers from Masset and Skidegate prepared for the journey of a lifetime, deep into the land of their ancestors. Ahead of them a three-day canoe trip on the wild Pacific to reach Hlk'yah GawwGa, Windy Bay, the only break in Lyell Island's incredibly rugged and rocky eastern coast.
For most of them, the voyage was not only their first in a traditional Haida canoe, it would be their first visit to the intact forests and ancient Haida village sites of the world-reknowned Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area and Haida Heritage Site.
Here, on a sunny day in Windy Bay's remote and ancient Haida village, the youth helped celebrate Gwaii Haanas's 20th anniversary, with the August 16, 2013, raising of the first traditional monumental pole in the park area in 130 years.
"We really got an appreciation for the old people," explained Skidegate's Nico York, whose brother Tyler helped carve the pole.
"We worked really hard just to paddle three days to get here, but they went all the way across to the Mainland in dugout canoes."
These youth have grown up with the stories of how, here on Lyell Island in 1985, their elders took a stand, blockading logging operations to protect these islands. Finally, after years of controversy, the 1993 Gwaii Haanas Agreement brought together the Canadian federal government and the Haida nation in a groundbreaking co-management deal to steward the islands forever, despite major differences in opinion with respect to ownership.
For a year they watched Masset carver Jaalen Edenshaw bring the Legacy Pole to life in the carving shed at the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagay (Skidegate). In addition to traditional Eagle, Dog and Sculpin figures, the story includes a visitor and five figures with linked arms, representing the blockaders.
Leading the journey, elders like Robert Wilson acted as steersmen. Known to all as Captain Gold, Wilson founded the Haida Gwaii Watchmen program in the early 1980s to safeguard the ancient villages. As steersman for the Skidegate canoe, he safely guided both the vessel and the future of Haida culture. Beyond steering the boat, says Captain Gold, teeth shining under a silver moustache, glasses and a personalized ball cap, his job was to "teach these kids how to paddle a canoe and camp on the land. It's part of our culture."
Under the imposing misty-grey shape of Lyell Island, the iconic square bows of the two canoes rode high on the Hecate Strait swell with an easy, timeless rhythm as they approached Windy Bay.
The sound of powerful young voices united in paddle song rounded the rocky headland before the canoes entered the bay. Finally the boats approached the beach with a rhythmic thump of upraised paddles on the wooden gunnels. Over 400 relatives and visitors, many of whom were dressed in full regalia of button blankets and cedar bark hats, greeted the canoes. More than a few eyes flowed like the
seawater that dripped from the cedar paddles.
After a timeless ceremony, 800 hands heaved on six thick ropes, and the 14-metre cedar pole leapt upright into the pre-dug pit as if by magic.
A live satellite feed transmitted the event globally, as a cheer in Windy Bay was echoed by thousands up-island.
The grey poles in the ancient villages are nearly gone, but these young paddlers are helping chart a new history, with the beginning of the next generation of Haida monumental art in Gwaii Haanas.